Weather Resistant Outdoor Outlet: A Complete Buying Guide

Waterproof outdoor sockets should not to be confused with ordinary outdoor sockets. Although these outdoor sockets can be considered WR-type outdoor sockets, they also come with an enclosure that provides their waterproofness with or without a device. Additionally, the outdoor plug needs to be vandal-resistant and include an RCD. Every weatherproof socket should be identified by its marking indicating the standards it meets.

Waterproof outdoor plugs and regular outdoor plugs should not be viewed as similar. Although waterproof outdoor plugs are classified as WR-type outdoor plugs, they have additional covers that ensure their waterproofness. Moreover, the plug should be resistant to vandalism and equipped with an RCD. All weatherproof plugs must have the labels that show what standards have been upheld.

WR, TR and In-Use: Decoding the Labels

Three labels correspond to three different specifications, yet it often happens that they get confused.

• WR (weather-resistant) is the requirement stated in NEC 406.9. Under its terms, all 15 A and 20 A, 125 V and 250 V nonlocking receptacles which are installed in wet or damp places must carry the weather-resistance marking, such receptacles being classified in the following configurations: 5-15, 5-20, 6-15, and 6-20. The principle of the difference between the standard and weatherproof devices consists solely in the materials used: UV-stabilized thermoplastic, corrosion-resistant components, and construction methods that prevent water from getting to the inner parts. A standard receptacle put into an outdoor box will function for a limited time after which it will get rusty and damaged due to moisture or UV.
• TR (tamper-resistant). It is another significant point according to NEC 406.12; applicability of this requirement also spreads over 15 A and 20 A, 125 V and 250 V nonlocking receptacles which are installed in a variety of premises, including: private houses, attached and detached garages and adjacent constructions, hotel/motel rooms, kindergarten and schools, dentist’s office and clinic, public meeting venues and dormitory units. A TR device features the set of internal shutters protecting against penetration of a single foreign object. However, there is a local exception that saying that TR marking is not mandatory in case the receptacle is installed at a height of more than 5 ft 6 in, as far as residential premises are concerned. But it is worth mentioning that this exception does not apply to WR requirement.
• Enclosure requirement (the term “in-use cover” is used in NEC 406.9(B)(1)). For it to meet this requirement it needs to be an extra-duty hood.

The practical outcome is that there is an outdoor receptacle that has to have all three features, and the most economical way to solve this problem is to use a combination of three devices — listed tarperproof-weatherproof GFCI receptacle.Working out which requirements apply at a given position is the first task of any outdoor outlet project, and this guide to choosing the right outdoor power outlet for a location walks through it position by position rather than assuming every outdoor outlet is the same.

Wet or Damp? The Rule Changes

The difference between damp and wet locations is essential for making purchases, as it’s not easy to figure out.

• A damp location refers to places which are shielded from weather but still moist, such as an outlet recessed in a porch, canopy or marquee. As per NEC 406.9(A), it needs to be a weatherproof closure when the plug is removed and when the cover is closed. Hence, WR-type receptacles need to be employed while hinged hoods will do.
• A wet location may refer to places that are either exposed to the weather or getting soaked in water, i.e. an outdoor wall or a receptacle located next to a hose bib. As per 406.9(B) (1), it needs to have the closure weatherproof, even if the device is not plugged in. The so-called in-use cover does the precise thing of only covering cords the time devices are in use because, without it, it will be hard to achieve that effect.

There are some details concerning 406.9 that one need to know before proceeding with the installation. In particular, hinged covers need to be able to open at least at a 90-degree angle when the receptacle box is installed; otherwise, they need to be rearranged. Also, the term extra-duty applies specifically to outlet box hoods, while the ones designated as suitable for wet locations or good for outdoors are not required to carry extra-duty labeling.

Another situation should be mentioned because it has become common practice in commercial agriculture —15A and 20A receptacles located in wet locations have special allowance permitting their insulators to remain weatherproof only during the time they are not plugged in. Such an allowance is not general and does not apply to an ordinary patio outlet in a private house.

Configurations You’ll Actually Buy

Most outdoor jobs on residential houses or small businesses require only a few different devices.

• The standard NEMA configuration is the TR/WR duplex receptacle (5-15R or 5-20R). NEMA 5-15 and 5-20 correspond to 15A and 20A, 125 V configurations used in North America, while NEMA 6-15 and 6-20 correspond to higher voltage equipment (250 V).
• The WR GFCI receptacle provides GFCI, TR and WR functions. It is the best option for residential outdoor settings, as it protects from shocks and protects any outlet connected downstream.
• Single or “one gang” outdoor receptacle is used for a dedicated purpose such as a pond pump, landscape transformer or a fountain.
• The USB outdoor outlet is now very common in outdoor public spaces such as the hospitality industry. Make sure that the USB module can stand heat exposure, as low quality modules are the first parts to fail when exposed to sun.
• Pedestal and post outlets are self-standing equipment for yards and marinas. They often have 30A and 50A configurations as well as 5-20R.

The configuration needs to match the country’s market from which you are buying the equipment. American markets are focused on NEMA 5-15 and 5-20 and GFCI protection, while European and British outdoor installations have different configurations and IP ratings and a different list of devices.If you are sourcing rather than installing, the range of American-configuration switches and sockets supplied for wholesale and OEM programmes is a useful reference for what those configurations look like in a production catalogue.

Boxes, Covers and Gaskets

Outdoors is the area where these features are probably missing, which is one reason why anyone is so confused about the home improvement bill.

• The box. Must be suitable for its purpose; usually weather-resistant NEMA 3R. If a box is made of metal, it has to be protected from corrosion. The lighter and waterproof PVC and engineered polymer boxes have to be well supported instead of rusting and corroding.
• The lid. For damp areas, flat lid is recommended; for wet locations, heavy-duty cover is prescribed. There are two basic kinds of lid: standard shallow vertical lid and deeper bubble lid which can be used with different sockets and cords. The last one must be deep enough so that at least the molded strain relief part is unobstructed. The most common mistake is due to shallow size of this type of lid.
• The gasket. It is placed between the device and the couverture, and between the plate and the box. These parts make the installation waterproof, but the weather is not helpful as they last for several seasons only. Rain and summer heat degrade them even in summer, making the gasket unable to seal anything.
• The orientation. Exterior fixture cannot be oriented face-up and should not hold water.

Getting the box and cover combination right is mostly a question of knowing which enclosure suits which wall construction and exposure, and this guide to choosing electrical boxes for outlets and switches covers the enclosure side of the problem, including the mounting and weatherproofing decisions that come before the device choice.

Installation and Maintenance

The installation process poses no challenges to a qualified electrical technician but can be treacherous for the average person as an exterior electrical outlet is powered with electricity and the outdoors makes it riskier and more dangerous than indoors. The order in which the installation process should be carried out needs to be observed.

• Make sure to check the circuit for electricity and test it because it’s impossible to trust the panel’s label.
• Make sure that the existing electrical circuit is suitable for the new device. Outdoor electric circuits are usually the last ones in the circuit and thus the voltage drop in case of heavy load on the circuit must be checked before the pump is added.
• Ensure GFCI protection is present.
• Install the junction box in such a way that rainwater can flow out of it. Seal the hole through the wall. Caulk the top and sides of the box flange and leave the bottom without sealant so that any water that gets behind the junction box can drain out of it easily.
• Once the gasket is installed, check the cover over it. After the installation, check that the lid of the cover can open no less than at least 90 degrees.
• Conduct maintenance on the gaskets. Replace every gasket that dried out.
• Check the GFCI unit as required by the instruction manual each month.

Beyond this, the maintenance is minimal: inspect the cover after storms, check for moisture in the container, replace any broken connector cover, and ensure that the unit itself is stationary since any movement compromises the watertight gasket. When the usage is low, the fault will be either the cover being stuck or the gasket being worn out rather than something electrical. The step-by-step version of the wiring is set out in this walkthrough of how to install a power outlet, which covers the conductor terminations and the box mounting in the order they have to happen.

Brands, Prices and How to Choose

It offers indicative prices for planning purposes instead of providing quotes:

• A standard duplex receptacle costs $2-$8 but does not work well outdoors.
• A WR duplex non-TR variant, either older stock or commercial variant, costs $5-$25.
• A TR/WR duplex with 5-15R or 5-20R rating comes at prices ranging between $8 and $30.
• A WR GFCI receptacle costs $20-$50.
• An extra-duty in-use cover costs $8-$25. A flat damp-location hood would cost you $3-$10.
• A weatherproof box is priced at $5-$20 depending upon whether or not it is a pedestal or post assembly.
• Raw materials for the job will cost you $20-$70 per outlet. In addition, a licensed electrician will charge you additional $150-$400 for the job, depending upon the device and other features like circuit run and size of the pull.

Certain brands are known in America about which you should be aware like Leviton, Eaton, and Hubbell with Bell and TayMac enclosures. Other brands worth mentioning are Legrand with Pass & Seymour, Bryant, and Arlington and Red Dot for the enclosure purpose.

When making a purchase, six questions must be asked:

• Is it WR rated? If a device is sold as being suitable for outdoor use but is not WR rated, then it is a non qualifying product for wet or damp areas.
• Is it TR rated and is it required by your location? In houses, balconies, garages, and in the nominally almost everywhere of the public space, the answer is essentially yes.
• Is the site wet or damp? This determines when to use plain or extra duty in use cover.
• Is your cover deep enough for your plug? Always remember to measure the cord cap from the plug including the housing.
• Is there GFCI protection for the circuit? If there is no protection, use a WR GFCI device instead of trying to retrofit it later.
• Does your provider provide proof for the listing? The scope of certification distinguishes real outdoor products from others.A manufacturer that publishes its approvals and can supply test documentation is a different proposition from one that publishes a picture, and for anyone buying in volume this is the practical way to approach sourcing outlets and switches from a manufacturing partner rather than from a retail shelf.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best weatherproof outdoor power outlet?

The ideal solution for nearly all outdoor residential applications is a GFCI/TR/WR receptacle, which incorporates tamper resistance, weather resistance, and shock protection in one item. It should be utilized in a NEMA 3R waterproof box with a suitable extra-duty in-use cover, and one that is deep enough to allow the use cord to cover the box fully. This combination meets NEC regulations for ground-fault protection, wet location, and tamper resistance, which gives the total cost around $30-80 in materials for an uncomplicated installation. An alternative receptacle can be used in case of a covered porch.

How do I weatherproof an outdoor outlet?

Four key points to remember: At first, get WR outlet receptacles used instead of ordinary ones that may get damaged and quit to work properly. Buying proper weatherproof enclosure and installing it for outdoor usage, you should leave its lower part of the wall entry of the weatherproof box open for water to run freely. Obtain a proper cover: the cover should be hooded and fit any wet location to seal properly with an attached plug. Make sure the hood can open about 90 degrees after installation in order to be sure it will be functional. Finally, make sure to properly service all the gasket seals since they are the components that enable the weatherproof capacity of the construction.

Do outdoor outlets need to be weather-resistant?

As per the rules, receptacles must be money to connect in weather for the circuits rated at 15 Amps and 20 Amps. The NEC 406.9 states that all types of nonlocking-rated receptacles utilized must be weather-resistant when applied in wet and damp locations. Various types of adaptations include 5-15, 5-20, 6-15, and 6-20. Putting an ordinary receptacle outside is always against the code and leads to failure due to UV exposure along with corrosion, regardless of the cover used. The WR requirement is totally different from the requirements for tamper resistance (406.12) and GFCI (210.8).

What kind of outlet should I use for outdoors?

Choose the proper NEMA TR/WR receptacle to match with the load in your area. In North America, select either the 5-15 receptacle for 15A service or the 5-20 receptacle when 20A service at 125V is used. For 250V equipment, make sure the 6-15 and 6-20 receptacles are utilized. Using any receptacle requires the outlet to be tamper-resistant so that there is no access for the household or public. Make sure GFCI protection is included in all cases. In case of single load, you can use single output receptacle while you can use the duplex receptacle when working with multi-purpose applications. Also if the device does not come with GFCI, then make sure to install the WR GFCI device on top of that. Finally, if the outlet is for 30A and 50A RV or connection, make sure to follow the specifications and not just the connector type.

References

1. NFPA 70, National Electrical Code — Article 406.9 (damp and wet locations) and 406.12 (tamper resistant)
2. UL Standards & Engagement — UL 498, Attachment Plugs and Receptacles
3. UL Standards & Engagement — UL 943, Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupters
4. OSHA — 29 CFR 1910.305(j), receptacles in damp and wet locations
5. Leviton — weather-resistant receptacles and extra-duty while-in-use covers

Conclusion

The distinction separating an outdoor outlet with a longevity of 15 years from one that breaks within just two years has little to do with the manufacturer of the outlet, but widely pertains to the characteristics of the outlet as being weatherproof, the design of the outlet for the environment it will be used in, the presence of the lid that keeps the wires protected and the state of the gaskets. By addressing these four points, the installation of outdoor outlets won’t be too pricey, while failing to address them leads to a need to replace the outlet every two years (due to humid conditions).